Testing Miss Havisham Makeup : BRUISE PALETTE

Moodboard of makeup and colour inspirations

Above is the face chart that I have created inspired by the bruise palette. This look consists of dark plums and purples along with yellows and greens. The idea behind this look is to create tired looking eyes, a sunken face and bruised puffy eyes. The white dots around the eyes is supposed to appear like flaking skin, but close up looks almost beautiful, I also had the idea that it would look like the skin around her eyes is moulding with some tones of yellow and green. I want to keep the eyebrows fairly natural, but roughen them up to create a unkept  and wild effect. I want a pale base and dry cracked skin with a dusty effect and chapped lips. 

Here is the outcome: 

To create this look, I used: 

• Illamasque white foundation
• Illamasque matt base 
• Illamasque Transluscent powder 
• Kyolan Bruise Wheel 
• 160 Colour Palette 
• Brush Kit 

How I created the look

1. Prep the skin: tone and moisturise. 

2. Apply matt base, this will ensure a matt finish eliminating any skin and enhance the colours that will be applied. 

3. Apply white base, buffing and blending to let the natural skin show through to create a more natural effect. 

4. Using the Kryolan bruise wheel, create dark circles making sure to blend well and avoid harsh lines. 

5. Using a pink creamy blush apply to the centre to the lids and centre on the bottom eye line to create a puffy-eyed effect. 

6. Powder the face. 

7. Using a dark black eyeshadow, emphasise the crease and outer corners of the eyes and the bottom lash line. Blend out and smudge. 

8. Using a thin eyeliner brush, dot white on the outer and inner corners of the eye. This will create a flaky skin effect. 

9. Apply base and a purple reddish colour on the lips and apply a thin layer of eyelash glue. When dry, peel back the latex to create a cracked lip. 

10. Apply a dark purple shadow on the outer corners and cupids bow to define the lips and smudge out. 

11. Contour the face to create a gaunt appearance, calve the cheekbones and temples. 

12. Using an eyebrow comb, dip into white base and dot onto the forehead and the top of the cheekbones to create the illusion of dust. Also add greyish grey and blue tones. 

13. Comb through the eyebrows backwards to create a wild effect. 

Improvements

1. Add more tones to the 'dust' which has fallen onto the face.
2. Contour the face more: contour the nose and brow bone too. 
3. Make the eyebrows less modern: get rid of the arch. 
4. Maybe add a tear to create more character.